Verified Advertising Program: We ❤️ Galapagos!

Verified Advertising Program: We ❤️ Galapagos!

Verified Advertising Program: We ❤️ Galapagos!

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Many join because they look for help with their future visit of the archipelago.

It is an ideal place for local operators and international travel agencies to offer a helping hand and promote their services.

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Galapagos Diving: Your Ultimate Guide to a Thrilling Journey

Galapagos Diving: Your Ultimate Guide to a Thrilling Journey

Galapagos Diving: Your Ultimate Guide to a Thrilling Journey

Diving in the Galapagos Islands, an experience placed amidst a fantastic assortment of marine life, shark diving and the breathtaking panorama of the underwater world, is a dream for many diving enthusiasts. Before you embark on this unforgettable journey, Josef Litt compiled answers to the most common questions about Galapagos diving to help you plan your adventure meticulously.

Land-Based vs. Liveaboard Galapagos Diving: What’s the Difference?

One of the pivotal decisions to make while planning your Galapagos diving adventure is whether to opt for a land-based or a liveaboard diving experience. Here, we detail the distinctive features of both to help you make an informed choice:

Land-Based Diving

A quick search will deliver several dive centres in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz and Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on San Cristóbal. Santa Cruz is a more advantageous starting point for diving thanks to its central location in the archipelago. The price for a two-tank dive trip start around $250. Some of the well-established dive centres are Scuba Iguana and Academy Bay Diving in Santa Cruz.

Limitations: Land-based diving allows easy access to nearby dive sites, generally limiting to areas around the central islands where day trips are feasible. Encounters with wildlife are more fleeting and limited than in the remote places accessible by liveaboard. It is possible to see sharks, but proper shark diving encounters happen on sites out of reach of day trips.

Flexibility: Land-based diving allows you to explore other island attractions, combining diving with other land-based activities like hiking, wildlife watching, etc.

Comfort: After a day of diving, you can retreat to the comfort of your hotel, enjoying amenities that might not be available on a boat.

Cost: Generally, it tends to be less expensive than liveaboard options, especially if you plan a few days of diving interspersed with other activities.

 

Galapagos Sky is the ultimate liveaboard for Galapagos diving and shark diving at Darwin and Wolf

Galapagos Sky LIveaboard in front of the recently collapsed Darwin’s Arch.

Liveaboard Diving

Ten liveaboards operate in the Galapagos, offering ultimate shark diving trips to Darwin and Wolf Islands. The prices start between $4,750 and $7,300 for a week of diving (8D/7N) in the most remote areas of the archipelago. Additional fees are not included in the base price; check the terms and conditions carefully to understand the total cost. Some liveaboards offer 11-day itineraries with extended diving in Darwin and Wolf Islands. Smaller (and cheaper) liveaboards need more time to travel between islands, which might result in fewer dives in attractive locations. Before making a decision, compare the itineraries.

Extended Reach: Liveaboards offer the opportunity to explore remote dive sites that are not accessible on day trips. The most iconic dive sites, Darwin Island, Wolf Island and Cabo Douglas, are only accessible on a liveaboard. Liveaboard diving puts Galapagos at the top of the world-class diving list. This is the ultimate shark diving in an area with the world’s scientifically largest mass of sharks.

Immersive Experience: Being on a liveaboard means diving by day and sailing by night, offering a truly immersive marine and shark diving experience without wasting time on transfers.

Community: Liveaboards foster a sense of community where you can connect with like-minded divers and share experiences.

Convenience: Liveaboards offer the convenience of having everything in one place, simplifying the logistics of multiple dive days.

Cost: While liveaboards might seem costlier, they offer an all-inclusive Galapagos diving experience, covering accommodation, meals, and multiple dives per day, providing value for money for serious divers.

An advice I gave on the We ❤️ Galapagos! Facebook group to a person looking for a honeymoon recommendation:

“There are ten liveaboards going to Darwin and Wolf. They differ in price and comfort.

The smallest and cheapest one, Nortada, offers four cabins for 12 people. I will leave it to you to consider if it is the best choice for your honeymoon.

AQUA Galápagos is a bigger boat with eight cabins for 16 guests. I was on Aqua, and it does the job. The level of comfort is not as great as on bigger boats. Smaller dining place, smaller deck and smaller diving deck for getting ready for diving. Very limited space for cameras. Also, the smaller boats are slower, requiring more time in the long transfers. Compare itineraries to see the number of dives in interesting places.

I was also on Galapagos Master and I am going on Ecoventura’s Galapagos Sky. Both are large boats with a great level of comfort.

I was with Aggressor Adventures fleet in other destinations, and I trust they provide the same level of great services on Galapagos Aggressor III too.

I’ve never been on Calipso Dive, just only visited Humboldt Explorer, never been on its sister boat Tiburon Explorer of Explorer Ventures, nor on Galagents Galapagos Cruises’ Galaxy Diver I and Galaxy Diver II.

My experience is that you get the space and comfort you pay for. The crews are generally professional and friendly, and some became friends over time. You can choose between 7 nights/8 days itineraries and 10 nights/11 days itineraries. Ensure that your itinerary includes diving with marine iguanas at Cabo Douglas dive site on Fernandina Island.“

Making Your Choice

Choosing between land-based and liveaboard Galapagos diving depends mainly on your preferences, desired marine exploration intensity, and budget. A liveaboard would be ideal if you are keen on delving deep into shark diving and don’t mind spending a bit more. Conversely, if you prefer mixing diving with other island activities and like returning to a comfortable hotel at the end of the day, land-based diving could be your go-to option.

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Galapagos diving with a green turtle at Darwin Island

A diver admires a green turtle
This image was taken in 2019 at Darwin Island.

Photograph © 2019 Josef Litt

Before the Galapagos Diving Trip

What is the Best Time of Year to Dive in the Galapagos?

The Galapagos Islands offer a year-round diving experience, but the best time depends on your preferences. You can expect warmer water temperatures and calmer seas from December to May. If you are keen on shark diving, spotting whale sharks around Darwin Island, hammerhead sharks and perhaps whales and manta rays, consider visiting between August and November when the waters are colder and nutrient-rich.

Do I Need a Specific Level of Diving Certification to Dive in the Galapagos?

Yes, due to the strong currents and sometimes challenging conditions, it is recommended that divers have an Advanced Open Water Certification or have logged at least 20 dives for central islands and 50 for Darwin and Wolf.

What Kind of Marine Life Can I Expect to See While Diving in the Galapagos?

The marine life in the Galapagos is amazingly diverse and the shark diving is incredible. You can expect to see hammerhead sharks, Galapagos sharks, sea turtles, manta rays, sea lions, moray eels, and a vibrant array of fish and coral species. Whale sharks frequent the waters around Darwin Island between August and November.

Are There Any Specific Health or Fitness Requirements for Galapagos Diving?

Given the sometimes challenging diving conditions, divers must be physically healthy. You should be able to manage strong currents and potentially cold water. A medical check-up before the trip is advisable.

What Kind of Diving Equipment Will I Need?

You will need the standard diving gear, including a mask, snorkel, fins, wetsuit, buoyancy control device (BCD), regulator, surface marker and a dive computer. The general recommendation is if a diver is bringing one suit, a 7 mm with hood/hooded vest and layering garments. Dry Suits are commonly used in Galapagos, with lighter undergarments in the warmer water and heavier undergarments in the colder water. However, trilaminate wetsuits are prone to damage caused by the rough surface of rocks and are not recommended. Divers must bring and wear gloves to protect their hands. If a diver is experienced and comfortable with reef hook use, they may bring their own along with a small cutting tool to cut themselves free if needed. Divers not highly experienced with reef hook use should not attempt learning during Galapagos diving due to strong currents.

Can I Rent Diving Equipment in the Galapagos, or Should I Bring My Own?

Both options are available. Many diving operators offer rental equipment, but you can bring your gear.

“If you are keen on shark diving, spotting whale sharks around Darwin Island, hammerhead sharks and perhaps whales and manta rays, consider visiting between August and November when the waters are colder and nutrient-rich.”

Marbled stingray at North Seymour dive site in the Galapagos taken by Josef Litt
Marbled stingray at North Seymour dive site, Galapagos

Photograph © 2019 Josef Litt

During the Trip

Are There Guided Diving Tours Available?

Numerous guided diving tours are available, often including knowledgeable guides who can enhance your experience with their expertise about the local marine life and ecosystems.

What Are the Most Popular Galapagos Diving Sites?

Darwin Island and Wolf Island are the world’s top dive sites, only available on a liveaboard. Some other popular sites include Cabo Douglas, Punta Vicente Roca (both also only via liveaboard) and Gordon Rocks, known for hammerhead sharks sightings.

What Safety Measures Are in Place for Divers in the Galapagos?

Diving operators adhere to safety protocols, including briefing divers on local conditions and safety equipment like surface marker buoys and ensuring that divers are equipped with the necessary safety gear, for example, sound horns and emergency beacons for liveaboard diving.

What is the Visibility Like in the Galapagos Waters?

Visibility can vary from 10 to 20 meters, depending on the season and specific dive site conditions.

What is the Water Temperature in the Galapagos at Different Times of the Year?

Water temperatures vary seasonally and between the islands. See the water temperature statistics table below.

Water Temperature for Galapagos diving and shark diving
Statistics of water temperatures in Galapagos per month and area.

Other Miscellaneous Questions

Are There Decompression Facilities Available in the Galapagos?

Yes, decompression facilities are available in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz island.

How Can I Ensure I Am Diving Responsibly and Not Harming the Marine Environment?

To dive responsibly, follow the guidelines provided by your dive operator and adhere to the principles of sustainable diving. This includes not touching or disturbing the marine life and being mindful of your buoyancy to avoid damaging the environment.

Are There Any Photography/Videography Guidelines or Restrictions While Diving?

While flash photography is forbidden on land, it is tolerated while diving. Photographers mustn’t disturb marine life. Always maintain a respectful distance and never chase or harass the animals for a photo.

What Kind of Accommodation Are Available for Divers in the Galapagos?

The Galapagos offers a range of accommodations, from luxury resorts to budget-friendly hostels. Many divers choose liveaboard boats for a comprehensive diving experience.

Is It Possible to Combine Diving with Other Tourist Activities in the Galapagos?

Absolutely! The Galapagos Islands offer many activities, including hiking, wildlife watching, and visiting the historic and scientific sites on the islands. Even the liveaboard cruises usually have a land-based visitor site in their itineraries, for example, North Seymour or Bartolomé.

What is the Cost Range for a Diving Trip in the Galapagos?

The cost can vary widely depending on the type of diving experience you choose. Liveaboard trips can range from about $5,000 to $8,000 or more, while day trips might start at around $250 per person per day.

Can I Undertake a Diving Course in the Galapagos?

Yes, some operators offer a range of courses from beginner to advanced levels, including speciality courses such as underwater photography. Diving courses are generally not available on liveaboards.

Are There Any Specific Regulations or Rules That Divers Need to Follow in the Galapagos?

Divers are expected to adhere to the park regulations, which include:

  • Not removing any natural objects.
  • Not feeding the wildlife.
  • Diving only in designated areas.

How Can I Prepare Myself to Maximize My Diving Experience in the Galapagos?

Before your trip, brush up on your diving skills, perhaps with a refresher course. Also, read up on the specific marine life you might encounter to enhance your understanding and appreciation of this unique environment.

South oceanic sunfish at Punta Vicente Roca, Isabela, Galapagos

Southern Ocean sunfish. It is a challenge to differentiate between the oceanic and the southern sunfish species without an x-ray or a dissection. I believe that it was the Southern Ocean sunfish, Mola alexandrini, we encountered at a small platform at 30 metres (100 feet) depth at Punta Vicente Roca early in the morning.

Photograph © 2016 Josef Litt

Gallery of Galapagos Diving Photographs taken by Josef Litt

Gallery of Underwater Photographs from Cuba

Gallery of Underwater Photographs from Cuba

Gallery of Underwater Photographs from Cuba

Cuba is such an intriguing country. Thanks to its economic situation, Cuban reefs are exposed to less environmental stress than others in the Gulf of Mexico. Also, active protection of some of the marine reserves ensures an abundance of large species unseen else in the Caribbean.

I can’t wait to visit Cuba again in March 2020!

Check the planned trips in my blog.

Join me on one of my trips and bring back your own photos!

Gallery of Underwater Photographs from the Galapagos

Gallery of Underwater Photographs from the Galapagos

Gallery of Underwater Photographs from the Galapagos

I look forward to going to the enchanted archipelago again in the next few days, hoping for extraordinary encounters with the spectacular fauna of Galapagos.

Watch this space, new imagery coming soon!

In the meantime, check the stories from the islands in my blog.

Join me on one of my trips and bring back your own photos!

What Does David Beckham Know About Whisky?

What Does David Beckham Know About Whisky?

What Does David Beckham Know About Whisky?

In 2014, the world-famous football striker lent his fame to whisky in a blue square bottle. Arguably an overpriced product seemed to be the vehicle for attracting new customers by shattering the perception of whisky as an old fashioned drink.

The Scotch Whisky Association reported yet another record-breaking year. In 2018, over two million people visited Scotch Whisky distilleries, and forty-one bottles were shipped overseas each second. Mr Beckham was onto something.

Wee Witchie, the smallest spirit still in the Mortlach Distillery

Wee Witchie. The smallest still in the Mortlach Distillery.

Photograph © 2019 Josef Litt

Abandoned spaces…
We often visit abandoned or disused industrial spaces in the distilleries that are usually unavailable to the public.

Photograph © 2019 Josef Litt

So many people told me about their underwhelming experience with whisky. However, Scotch comes in many different styles and qualities. Some say there is whisky for everyone; one only needs to find it. Add the authentic heritage, craftsmanship, passion in whisky-making and here is a recipe for life-long enjoyment.

I hardly ever appreciated spirits as a drink and whisky was no exception. My own journey of acquired taste started ten years ago when I tried a smoky single malt distilled on the Isle of Islay. I stumbled onto the “my” whisky by pure coincidence. Over the years, I was lucky and privileged to help others to find their favourite style and appreciate Scotch Whisky in its diversity.

Some whiskies are smooth and smell after flowers, some are smoky and medicinal. Why is that? Best to find out directly from the makers!

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much good whiskey is barely enough.”
— Mark Twain

Laphroaig Distillery

An evening at the Laphroaig Distillery. Taken from a hired boat on the way from Isle of Jura to Port Ellen.

Photograph © 2015 Josef Litt

bottles of Scotch are shipped overseas each second

In the first half of this year, I took two groups of people to some of the distilleries in Scotland. The itinerary of the trips reflected the attendees’ knowledge and previous experience. With the group keen to learn the basics, we explored the differences in styles of whisky, we talked about the production process and how it affects the liquid in the bottle. We tasted a carefully selected variety of whiskies of the highest quality from all corners of Scotland before moving to the Isle of Islay for a couple of days of pure indulgence. There we enjoyed whiskies one cannot buy in shops, often straight from the casks in the distillery cellars.

We learnt about malting, mashing, fermentation, distillation and maturation. We found out how much the different barrels influenced the whisky inside, and we filled our own bottle with whisky of our choice comparing the liquid matured in various woods. Weather was lovely, and we had loads of fun.

 

A flying Scotsman in April weather

A flying Scotsman in April weather. Sudden weather change surprised us at the Glenfarclas distillery. Some attempted to fly off to a warmer place.

Photograph © 2019 Josef Litt

Tasting the “beer”.

Photograph © 2019 Josef Litt

With the other group, we went straight to the deep end of the annual Speyside Whisky Festival. On specialist tastings, we compared styles of whiskies from a single distillery produced in different decades. Some of the bottles carried a price tag worth tens of thousands of pounds. Distillery managers took us to distilleries usually inaccessible to the public and allowed us into areas mothballed due to modernisation but still containing the old machinery. We lived an enthusiast’s dream.

I would add that the same is true for knowledge, joy and laughter. We did not have the opportunity to taste Mr Beckham’s whisky from the square blue bottle, but we came out of the trip well-equipped to assess its quality and value.

Get in touch if you are interested in joining me on one of the future trips.

Five Amazing Secrets of the Galapagos Whale Shark

Five Amazing Secrets of the Galapagos Whale Shark

Five Amazing Secrets of the Galapagos Whale Shark

Pregnant whale shark female at Darwin Island in the Galapagos. In 2014, members of the Galapagos Whale Shark Project reported sightings of 27 whale sharks, all females, all but one pregnant around Darwin Island in the Galapagos archipelago.

Photograph © 2011 Josef Litt

We know very little about the biggest bony fish in the oceans, the whale shark.

Whale sharks are the world’s most giant fish, growing up to twenty metres in length – more than a bowling lane and almost as long as a passenger train coach. We don’t know how fast they grow and what is their maximum age. The best estimates are that the big ones may be more than one hundred years old.

Whale Sharks and the Atomic Bomb Method

Scientists determine the age of sharks by counting growth rings in their vertebrae. This method seems to provide reliable results for younger animals. However, one needs an atomic bomb to make the reading more precise in case of the older sharks. The nuclear tests performed in the 1950s and 1960s increased the amount of radiocarbon in the atmosphere. The radioactive material entered the oceans and imprinted a timestamp in the whale sharks vertebrae. Today, this timestamp helps to establish the age of older individuals.

Juvenile whale shark, Darwin Island, Galapagos

Juvenile whale shark. We encountered this juvenile on top of the shallow platform underneath the Darwin Island in the Galapagos.

Photograph © 2011 Josef Litt

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Whale Sharks and the Hubble Space Telescope Method

To paraphrase Douglas Adams in the Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy: ‘Whale sharks are big. Really big. You just won’t believe how vastly hugely mind-bogglingly big they are.’

From that slightly facetious perspective, it is no surprise that the scientists use the Hubble Space Telescope to identify individual whale sharks. The spots behind their gills form an ornament as unique as a fingerprint. Jason Holmberg, the co-founder of WildMe.org, adapted an algorithm used by NASA with the telescope to recognise and compare the patterns. Thanks to that anybody who photographed a whale shark anywhere in the world can upload their images to the Wildbook for Whale Sharks. Almost 8,000 people identified more than 10,000 whale sharks during close to 60,000 sightings. The data give scientists information about the distribution and movement of the gentle giants, hopefully leading to their adequate protection.

‘Whale sharks are big. Really big. You just won’t believe how vastly hugely mind-bogglingly big they are.’

The boats anchored in the San Cristobal marina.
An evening at San Cristóbal marina, Galapagos The crews are preparing for their journeys to Darwin and Wolf islands.

Photograph © 2011 Josef Litt

million US$ a year

The Value of a Whale Shark

Since 2016, IUCN describes the whale sharks on its Red List as Endangered. The reason is the demand for shark fins in Asia and the nature of whale shark meat, often referred to as ‘tofu shark’. Infuriatingly, despite their size, they also end up as bycatch. Since early 2017, whale sharks enjoy protection as migratory species in more than 125 countries. A number originating from research in 2004 estimates their value to tourism at over USD 47.5 million a year – an amount that is indisputably higher today. Hopefully, governments will realise the species’ importance and enforce the protection they committed to.

Darwin's Arch, Galapagos
Darwin’s Arch a mile away from the Darwin Island. The deep sea surrounding Darwin Island may serve as a breeding ground for whale sharks.

Photograph © 2016 Josef Litt

Magic sunset in the Galapagos
Magic sunset in the Galapagos

Photograph © 2011 Josef Litt

The Whale Sharks’ Birthplace

Members of the Galapagos Whale Shark Project in 2014 reported sightings of 27 whale sharks, all females, all but one pregnant around Darwin Island in the Galapagos archipelago – this seems to be a typical situation confirmed by tourists’ observations. Jonathan R. Green, the leader of the Galapagos Whale Shark Project, explores a hypothesis that the deep sea surrounding Darwin Island serves as a breeding ground for whale sharks. However, nobody has ever seen a whale shark to give birth or breed. Recent discoveries lead to a hypothesis that Galapagos are on whale sharks’ migratory routes but do not play a larger role otherwise.

I heard a fisherman speculate about the reason why the whale shark males avoid the Galápagos. Their little cousins, the silky sharks, frequent the islands waters in search of food. Remoras belong to their favourite staple. An attacked remora would hide among the whale sharks’ claspers to protect itself. The ferocious silky shark will hardly differentiate between a remora and a clasper. The poor male whale sharks are afraid that they may get hurt in such a sensitive place, so they avoid Galápagos at all cost. I wonder whether there is a scientific base to this speculation.

Claspers of an adult male whale shark are formed from the rear end of their pelvic fin. They channel semen into the female’s cloaca during mating.

Photograph Simon Pierce https://www.simonjpierce.com.

Ending with a Hairy Story

Whale sharks were never seen feeding at Galapagos, which gives the following story* a whiff of a fairy tale.

‘As with any other animal on the Galápagos, and it should be a good practice anywhere in the world, touching whale sharks is strictly forbidden. This was not a well-observed custom some time ago, perhaps ten or twenty years back when, according to a local legend, one of the naturalist guides nicknamed Zorro Plateado, or Silver Fox, used to ride the whale sharks holding on to their dorsal fin. As if this was not enough, he supposedly dragged himself from the dorsal fin and then plunged headfirst over the animal’s upper lip into its gaping mouth. Disappearing into the poor whale shark’s maw, he was gushed out after a moment in a shroud of his bubbles, in slight disarray, but unharmed. The animal seemed to be unperturbed, it turned slowly and swam away. The diver’s equipment could have easily injured the whale shark, and I indeed believe that such acts would not be tolerated today.’

I was pleased to be contacted by the family of Zorro Plateado in reaction to this story. I welcome first-hand information rather than an unconfirmed narration by somebody else. Zorro declines the story featuring him and a whale shark as untrue. The truth is that he was honoured with a plaque from the Charles Darwin Foundation for his constant efforts in teaching the children the importance of conservation. He also plays an important part in CDF’s Shark Ambassador Program.

I hope I will have a chance to meet Zorro in person soon.

*A spoiler citation from Litt, Josef. GALÁPAGOS. Mostly Underwater Books. The United Kingdom, 2018.
A similar story was also mentioned in Bantin, John. Amazing Diving Stories. United Kingdom: John Wiley & Sons Ltd, 2012.

Whale shark in the Galapagos
A diver, small camera and a whale shark. Touching whale sharks is strictly forbidden.

Photograph © 2017 Ivan Jiskra

Gallery of Palau Photographs

Gallery of Palau Photographs

Gallery of Palau Photographs

Healthy coral growth is one of the hallmarks of Palawian diving.
Photograph © 2018 Josef Litt

Diving Palau, the archipelago full of mushroom-like islets covered with lush vegetation above the water and stunning coral reef underwater, was on my bucket list since I started to dive. Finally, we made the dream came true with All4Dive, our favourite dive club from Prague in the Czech Republic.

As a preparation, I made a list of animals I’d like to encounter and places I’d want to visit. Mantas, sharks, nautilus, aeroplane wrecks, the Chandelier cave and the Jellyfish lake, belong to the unmissable attractions. The chains of islands itself are a spectacular view, best enjoyed from the air.

I could have hardly seen all this beauty during one week of liveaboard diving. Also, the weather was not the best during our trip and caused some lousy visibility at the beginning of the journey. We saw mantas, but I did not have a good enough photographic opportunity to capture their majesty.

Despite the weather, we had a great time aboard Ocean Hunter III, and I was able to bring back some images. There are so many aspects of Palau we did not explore. We will be back and report.

In the meantime, enjoy the pictures from the last trip.

Join me on one of my trips and bring back your own photos!

Gallery of Galapagos Photographs

Gallery of Galapagos Photographs

Gallery of Galapagos Photographs

Galapagos cruise boat Tip Top IV. Aerial view at taken in Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz.
Photograph © 2017 Josef Litt
Galapagos photographs usually tell a story. Enjoy this gallery of unpublished images I took while cruising around the islands in 2017.

Join me on one of my Galapagos trips and bring back your own photos!

Freezing for Galapagos Wildlife

Freezing for Galapagos Wildlife

Freezing for Galapagos Wildlife

Island Wolf. Aerial view with the Anchorage dive site to the right.
Photograph © 2016 Kevin Hanson

Varied underwater environments in different parts of the archipelago offer stunning encounters with Galapagos wildlife in both, warm and cold waters.

The night settled on Wolf Island in the Galapagos. My teeth chatter, and there is nothing I can do with my whole body shivering in the pitch-black underwater darkness. The sandy bottom, thirty meters under the surface, is as empty as beach chairs in Greenland. You can pretend you are a fur seal. But it will not help you in 13°C degrees water which in my numb mind is just above freezing point. I would love to sit in the boat lounge with hot tea in my hand. But I am down here as cold as a frozen herring, and my lamp flickers in search of the elusive red-lipped batfish, Ogcocephalus darwini, a quirky representative of peculiar Galapagos wildlife.

The book I am writing about the Galapagos would utterly fail without a photograph of the batfish. And, I will run out of the air in the next fifteen minutes. Ah, but wait! Something just moved on the sand in front of me!

Galapagos wildlife: Red-lipped batfish at The Anchorage, Wolf Island
Red-lipped batfish. There was only a little exaggeration when I compared the batfish to my grandma.
Photograph © 2016 Josef Litt
Fishing boat at Wolf Island.
This image was taken in 2011 when local fishermen could visit Darwin and Wolf island. Ecuador pronounced the northern expanse of the Galapagos Marine Reserve a sanctuary in 2015, where no fishing is allowed.

Photograph © 2011 Josef Litt

What do you see looking at the batfish? I imagine my grandma after a heavy night. The night when she did her makeup by herself – without a mirror and while thinking about mass extinction. She was not a conservationist, but her gentle hand helped many unlucky farm animals back on feet. When her hand did not help, her colourful swearing certainly did.

The bottom-dwelling batfish spend their life crawling more than swimming, using their modified pectoral fins to walk. When disturbed, they swim in a comical waddling movement. Although it is strange-looking, this species is harmless to humans – unlike my grandma. Batfish are anglers, using a particular body part called an illicium, which extends outward above their head to lure prey. I believe this species is also proof that water absorbs the colour red first. Otherwise, this example of Galapagos wildlife would starve to death, because no self-appreciating fish would come close to that hungry, bright red mouth.

“I imagine my grandma after a heavy night. The night when she did her makeup by herself – without a mirror and while thinking about mass extinction.”

Punta Vicente Roca
Panorama of Punta Vicente Roca. The penguins and the cormorants inhabit the small beach to the right. The tip of the rocky outcrop to the left marks the dive site to spot the sunfish.

Photograph © 2016 Josef Litt

5 AM, two days later

Still dark, only small waves splashing against the volcanic rock of Punta Vicente Roca on Isabela. We repeat in low voices the rules for an encounter with Mola alexandrini, the Southern Ocean sunfish: Wait until the sunfish comes to the cleaning station near a platform at 30 m depth. Do not use strobes until the cleaning starts.

The cold oceanic Cromwell Current upwells on the western side of Isabela, bringing from the depths nutrition to a whole food web of fish and marine animals. As a result, Punta Vicente Roca brims with life and even hosts a colony of Galapagos penguins, Spheniscus mendiculus. Did I mention the Cromwell Current is cold? Well, it is penguin-cold!

Harlequin Wrasse. These spectacular wrasses are frequently seen at Punta Vicente Roca.

Photograph © 2016 Josef Litt

We descend to 30 m and wait for the sunfish to appear from the depths. The visibility is poor, maybe five or six meters. The dawn is rising, and there is no sun to speak of. Depth and cold quickly kill our determination. After twenty minutes of idle waiting, my buddies start leaving one by one, either because of hypothermia or running out of the air. But I stay put.

Suddenly two flecks below us take on a darker shade of blueish-green. Two sunfish rise to the cleaning station and let the Mexican hogfish perform their cleaning duty, picking parasites from their skin.

No, we did not stick to the rules. Being excited, cold, and intoxicated with nitrogen, we did not wait for the sunfish to settle and we fired our strobes too early. Both animals disappeared in a few seconds. Only a single viable image remained from this encounter with this elusive specimen of Galapagos wildlife.

South oceanic sunfish at Punta Vicente Roca, Isabela, Galapagos
Southern Ocean sunfish. It is a challenge to differentiate between the oceanic and the southern sunfish species without an x-ray or a dissection. I believe that it was the Southern Ocean sunfish, Mola alexandrini, we encountered at a small platform at 30 metres (100 feet) depth at Punta Vicente Roca early in the morning.

Photograph © 2016 Josef Litt

Galapagos Front Cover

Writing a well-illustrated book about Galapagos took me to the islands multiple times. I travelled twice to photograph the underwater scenery and fauna of the northern islands, Darwin and Wolf. On another occasion, I visited thirteen islands during a two-week trip. I would recommend extending each trip with a stay on one of the main islands, Santa Cruz or San Cristóbal. Both offer a plethora of snorkelling and Galapagos wildlife spotting opportunities.

Galapagos offer one lesson. Despite being on the equator, their unique climate means that one is cold more often than desired.

Excuse me for now, please. Defrosted, I got to go and apologise to my grandma.

Mostly Underwater Books © Josef Litt

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